The label, run out of a two-person studio, has kept a hard production cap of forty pieces per seasonal drop since it launched three years ago, a number the founders chose deliberately rather than arrived at by capacity limits alone.
That cap has cost them real money. At least two wholesale offers from boutiques that would have required scaling production well past the cap were turned down outright, on the grounds that the studio couldn't guarantee the same hand-finishing at higher volume without either hiring out the work or lowering the standard.
“Every piece has a number on the inside seam. Forty-one would break the whole idea.”
Every piece is numbered on an inside seam, a detail the founders describe as functional rather than purely decorative — it lets them track exactly which piece belongs to which buyer, and, they admit, it also does the work of making scarcity legible in a way a hangtag alone wouldn't.
The materials are sourced almost entirely from surplus fabric bought from larger manufacturers' overruns, which the founders say is less an ethical statement than a practical one: surplus fabric is cheaper and more interesting than anything they could special-order at their volume, and the limited yardage available naturally caps how many pieces a given fabric can become.
Asked whether the label will ever scale past forty pieces, the answer is a firm no, framed less as a limitation than as the actual product: 'People aren't buying a jacket. They're buying one of forty jackets. Take away the forty and you've just got a jacket.'
